IN A TIME OF UNIVERSAL DECEIT...TELLING THE TRUTH BECOMES A REVOLUTIONARY ACT

"Capitalism is the astounding belief that the most wicked of men will do the most wicked of things for the greatest good of everyone." John Maynard Keynes

" Labor is prior to, and independent of, capital; that, in fact, capital is the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if labor had not first existed. Labor is the superior of capital and deserves much the higher consideration" Abraham Lincoln

Saturday, April 17, 2010

TRUTH AND RECONCILIATION

TRUTH AND RECONCILIATION

The white-minority apartheid regime in South Africa fell in 1990, which had been previously held in place by force of arms, torture, repression, and at times outright murder. It was replaced by a representative democracy led by the African National Congress, in 1991. One way that the ANC and the majority of South Africans, white and black, tried to heal the previous decades of repression was through the formation of a Truth and Reconciliation Commission. People who had faced repression, mainly blacks by the apartheid regime, but even a few whites, claiming repression by the ANC testified. Former pepretators, mainly whites from the apartheid regime, were able to petition for amnesty by recounting their crimes, and promising repentance. http://www.justice.gov.za/trc/amntrans/index.htm  This all happened in South Africa, from 1994 to 1999. It's results are being questioned.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truth_and_Reconciliation_Commission_(South_Africa)

Some claim that it did not go far enough, in punishing the perpretators of vast injustices against the Black South Africans, in the decades from 1960 to 1990. But whatever the results so far, it is a fact that this country has managed to come through this dramatic transition from white-minority repression of the black majority, to a more representative form of government (at least legislatively, but still not economically), with remarkably little bloodshed.

An inspiration for the World, and a place we feel worthy of visiting, and reporting on in the coming years, here at A.P.R.
In previous articles here at A.P.R., we have documented the illegality and immorality of the attack and occupation of a relatively defenseless country, the sovereign nation of Iraq, whose crime it is to sit upon the World's second largest pool of sweet, easily refined, crude oil.
http://akprogressive.blogspot.com/2008/12/who-are-we.html

Which has lead to the deaths of at least one million innocent civilians, and still counting, and 4 million refugees, out of a population of 23 million, who fled for safety to neighbouring countries. With countless criminal acts of murder by occupational troops. http://www.commondreams.org/headline/2010/04/05-6

An invasion undertaken, not just for the control of these vast resources, but to enforce a "Shock Doctine" in "free-market" economic policies upon it.

How are we ever going to stop this ongoing tragedy and criminal enterprise, until we as a nation face up to the truth? And hold to account, and punish those responsible?

Small, hopeful cracks are beginning to appear in the exceptionalist mainstream of America. This article came out today in Commondreams, and we found it very worthy of sharing, and commenting upon:

An Open Letter of Reconciliation and Responsibility to the Iraqi People


From Current and Former Members of the U.S. Military
by Josh Stieber and Ethan McCord

Peace be with you.

To all of those who were injured or lost loved ones during the July 2007 Baghdad shootings depicted in the "Collateral Murder" Wikileaks video: http://www.commondreams.org/headline/2010/04/05-6

We write to you, your family, and your community with awareness that our words and actions can never restore your losses.

We are both soldiers who occupied your neighborhood for 14 months. Ethan McCord pulled your daughter and son from the van, and when doing so, saw the faces of his own children back home. Josh Stieber was in the same company but was not there that day, though he contributed to the your pain, and the pain of your community on many other occasions.

There is no bringing back all that was lost. What we seek is to learn from our mistakes and do everything we can to tell others of our experiences and how the people of the United States need to realize what have done and are doing to you and the people of your country. We humbly ask you what we can do to begin to repair the damage we caused.

We have been speaking to whoever will listen, telling them that what was shown in the Wikileaks video only begins to depict the suffering we have created. From our own experiences, and the experiences of other veterans we have talked to, we know that the acts depicted in this video are everyday occurrences of this war: this is the nature of how U.S.-led wars are carried out in this region.

We acknowledge our part in the deaths and injuries of your loved ones as we tell Americans what we were trained to do and carried out in the name of "god and country". The soldier in video said that your husband shouldn't have brought your children to battle, but we are acknowledging our responsibility for bringing the battle to your neighborhood, and to your family. We did unto you what we would not want done to us.

More and more Americans are taking responsibility for what was done in our name. Though we have acted with cold hearts far too many times, we have not forgotten our actions towards you. Our heavy hearts still hold hope that we can restore inside our country the acknowledgment of your humanity, that we were taught to deny.

Our government may ignore you, concerned more with its public image. It has also ignored many veterans who have returned physically injured or mentally troubled by what they saw and did in your country. But the time is long overdue that we say that the value of our nation's leaders no longer represent us. Our secretary of defense may say the U.S. won't lose its reputation over this, but we stand and say that our reputation's importance pales in comparison to our common humanity.

With such pain, friendship might be too much to ask. Please accept our apology, our sorrow, our care, and our dedication to change from the inside out. We are doing what we can to speak out against the wars and military policies responsible for what happened to you and your loved ones. Our hearts are open to hearing how we can take any steps to support you through the pain that we have caused.

Solemnly and Sincerely,

Josh Stieber, former specialist, U.S. Army
Ethan McCord, former specialist, U.S. Army

Sign a petition here. http://org2.democracyinaction.org/o/5966/p/dia/action/public/?action_KEY=2724
 
We found this article particularly moving and hopeful today, and hope that you do too. Unfortunately, our corporate mass-media still does not allow coverage of material like this, so we have to spread the word ourselves, please do! Some form of truth and reconciliation committee will be needed in this country, if it is ever to survive as a vital and engaging member of the community of nations on this planet.

Monday, April 5, 2010

THREE WEEKS EARLY

Happy Spring! Usually at this time, here in Interior Alaska, we are enjoying our last bit of winter weather, and a good snowpack, to fulfill our final throes of close-at-hand nordic skiing. But not this year. Interior Alaska remains locked in a drought pattern. The Fairbanks airport has only received 63 cm (24.8 in.) of snow this year, only 38 percent of the average 168 cm (66 in.), up to 01 APR. In addition, since 01 July, Fairbanks has only received 11.2 cm of liquid-equivalent (4.48 in.), only 54 percent of the average of 21.2 cm (8.33in.).
This satellite image shows the basic pattern that has been responsible for the drought. High pressure ridging, sometimes weak, other times stronger, has been remaining in place over central and eastern Alaska, extending north and west from western Canada, over the past year.
This pattern over Alaska is thought to be the result of "El Nino" conditions over the Pacific Ocean. And in fact, there has been a moderate ENSO event over the past year.
http://www.cpc.noaa.gov/products/precip/CWlink/MJO/enso.shtml#discussion

High temperatures over the past few weeks have been around 3-9C (37-48F), which are 3-7C above average. This, combined with the stronger spring sun, has jump started our spring melt, about THREE WEEKS EARLY. The willow trees also began budding, about THREE WEEKS EARLY.

The effects are striking. Here are a few pictures from around town yesterday, showing our almost-gone snowpack, which only contained 3.8 cm (1.47 in.) liquid-equivalent in it.

Driving around the Univ. of Alaska campus (UAF), this shows the flat grassy areas to be almost entirely snow-free. Your lead author has never seen such bare conditions this early, in his nine winters here.

Then, in the shadier forested areas, only patchy, dirty snow remains. Quite dispiriting for those of us who like to ski on our wonderful trail systems around town. 
UAF pays artists to create ice sculptures every winter, around campus. There are a few Nanooks (polar bears, the UAF mascot) in strategic locations. Unfortunately, the unusually warm conditions the last several weeks have managed to put this one on a diet, and it may disappear entirely soon.

People have been asking me alot lately, does this drought pattern we've been in, and the rapidly disappearing snowpack, mean that interior Alaska will be in for another bad fire season?

It's very difficult to predict in advance what our fire seasons here will be like. A research study prepared at Alaska Fire Service in 2005 found no significant correlation between low snowpacks the previous winter, and the severity of the ensuing fire season. That is because our fire seasons are driven by short-term weather processes here. Namely, the duration and frequency of high-pressure systems during the summer. Stronger, more frequent, and persistent high pressure ridging and the resultant warm, dry weather they bring, if preceded by patterns producing thunderstorms, igniting wildfires, are responsible for our worst fire seasons.

As you can see from our graph of Alaska fire season acreages, plotted with may-august average temperatures, there is a direct link with the warmer summers, and high acreage years, as well as an increasing trend. It's hard not to think that the loss of our skimpy snowpacks so early, combined with the overall drought conditions that have been in place since last summer, will have some effect on this year's fire season. If this drought pattern persists over interior Alaska through May and June, it could be quite a bad season. Only time will tell...

We hope not, as these increasingly large fire seasons, not just in Alaska, but throughout North America, Australia, Europe, and Siberia, are a positive feedback mechanism to global warming. More CO2 is emitted from these larger fire systems, which leads to more warming, and increased fire activity, etc... This warming also leads to more permafrost melting, which also releases vast amounts of CO2 and methane (which is 22X more efficient of a greenhouse gas than CO2). It is unknown, what can, or will stop these vicious positive feedback mechanisms which could raise global average temperatures 5-7C within 50-60 years, as well as lead to the loss of large amounts of ice from Greenland and the periphery of Antarctica. Which could bring rapid sea level rises of 5-15 metres in a few decades.

As an example, the average high and low temperature for the month of July in Missoula, Montana is 29C/9C (84F/48F). If average temperatures rise 6C, then their July temperatures would average 35C/15C 50 years from now. Think about what that would do to the forests and ecosystems, in the Rocky Mountains, or wherever you are living. Fairbanks average high and low July temperatures are 22C/11C (72F/52F). A rise of these to 28C/17C would be catastrophic to our boreal forest ecosystem, and would prove fatal to most of the spruce and birch.

Climate change modelling for the Arctic Regions have also been showing that snowpacks will melt earlier overall in spring, and start later in fall, in the coming decades. Since these models were a few decades off, not showing the rapid melting of the summer Arctic Ocean icepack observed currently until 2030 or so, perhaps these models are also off by a few decades with the earlier springs. Food for thought. Cheers. 

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

KOYAANISQATSI

means, in the Hopi Tradition, "Out of Balance". Basically, the prevailing interpretation of this, is that the current World, the Fourth in their cosmology, will end destructively when people lose their connectedness with each other, and to the Earth. And a transition to a Fifth World will begin, though with far fewer people. A movie was made in 1982, with this as it's backdrop, which many critics call a classic. 

We saw this old 2008 Frontline story about Climate Change on our Fairbanks PBS tonight:



In it, several high officials from both the Clinton and following Bush administrations, were critical of the way U.S. policy toward working to solve the Global Warming threat was shifted after 2001. In particular, one Republican official actually said the U.S. "was thumbing its nose at the rest of the World, and they would just have to take it". Then protest footage from around the World was shown after the U.S. pulled out of the Kyoto Accord, in 2001, at the behest of Dick Cheney, and the energy corporations lobbies. Of course, very little of this ever really reached the U.S. public, on our corporate media.

This website talks about the Hopi prophecies, and we found these paragraphs to be especially interesting.  http://www.ratical.com/koya.html

The Hopi's cosmology perceives this to be the Fourth World. There were seven worlds created at the beginning. The first three were each destroyed in turn because the humans inhabiting them had diverged too far from their original sacred path of connectedness with and love and respect for all life on Mother Earth. Their prophecies describe the possibility of such a destruction of the Fourth World (in forms such as uranium mining, the existence of powerlines, and the atomic bomb):

"If we dig precious things from the land, we will invite disaster.

Near the Day of Purification, there will be cobwebs
spun back and forth in the sky.

A container of ashes might one day be thrown from the sky,
which could burn the land and boil the oceans."

However, as Oren Lyons of the Onondaga has pointed out, it is the choice of each generation whether or not the prophecies of life's disintegration and dissolution will actually fully manifest in that generation's time. It is not a "done deal" where fears -- as well as desires -- of apocalyptic visions are concerned.

There is no question that this time we are living in is a state of life that calls for another way of living. What is in question is can we adequately summon and engage our infinite powers of response ability to transform the way we think and relate to ourselves, all our relations, and the world as a whole with sufficient energy to change the world, thus re-committing ourselves to the original contract with life each of us is here to fulfill?

Elisabet Sahtouris's view of our-home-the-world sees many connectives post-industrial culture has long since forgotten. In her The Biology of Globalization essay, she assays our inexorable movement towards planetary culture :

"As an evolutionary biologist, I see globalization as natural, inevitable, and even desirable, as I hope to show. It is already well on its way and is not a reversible process. We are doing some aspects of it cooperatively and well, to wit our global telephone, postal and air travel systems, but the most central and important aspect of globalization, its economics, are currently being done in a manner that threatens the demise of our whole civilization. For this reason, we must become more conscious participants in the process, rather than letting a handful of powerful players lead us all to doom. "

"Anyone who knows how to run a household, knows how to run the world."

-- Xilonem Garcia, a Meshika elder in Mexico

There were two articles today on our favourite news collection source, commondreams. The first was about the vast forest die-offs in the western lower 48, and throughout the rest of the World (including here in Alaska, where rapid changes are occurring).

The Great Forest Die-Off

What’s Killing the Great Forests of the American West? A Frightening Phenomenon Happening Across the Globe

by Jim Robbins

For many years, Diana Six, an entomologist at the University of Montana, planned her field season for the same two to three weeks in July. That's when her quarry - tiny, black, mountain pine beetles - hatched from the tree they had just killed and swarmed to a new one to start their life cycle again.

Now, says Six, the field rules have changed. Instead of just two weeks, the beetles fly continually from May until October, attacking trees, burrowing in, and laying their eggs for half the year. And that's not all. The beetles rarely attacked immature trees; now they do so all the time. What's more, colder temperatures once kept the beetles away from high altitudes, yet now they swarm and kill trees on mountaintops. And in some high places where the beetles had a two-year life cycle because of cold temperatures, it's decreased to one year.

Such shifts make it an exciting - and unsettling - time to be an entomologist. The growing swath of dead lodgepole and ponderosa pine forest is a grim omen, leaving Six - and many other scientists and residents in the West - concerned that as the climate continues to warm, these destructive changes will intensify.

"A couple of degrees warmer could create multiple generations a year," she said, as she chopped off a piece of bark on a dead lodgepole pine to show the galleries of burrowing larvae. "If that happens, I expect it would be a disaster for all of our pine populations."

Across western North America, from Mexico to Alaska, forest die-off is occurring on an extraordinary scale, unprecedented in at least the last century-and-a-half - and perhaps much longer. All told, the Rocky Mountains in Canada and the United States have seen nearly 70,000 square miles of forest - an area the size of Washington state - die since 2000. For the most part, this massive die-off is being caused by outbreaks of tree-killing insects, from the ips beetle in the Southwest that has killed pinyon pine, to the spruce beetle, fir beetle, and the major pest - the mountain pine beetle - that has hammered forests in the north.

These large-scale forest deaths from beetle infestations are likely a symptom of a bigger problem, according to scientists: warming temperatures and increased stress, due to a changing climate. Although western North America has been hardest hit by insect infestations, sizeable areas of forest in Australia, Russia, France, and other countries have experienced die-offs, most of which appears to have been caused by drought, high temperatures, or both.

One recent study collected reports of large-scale forest mortality from around the world. Often, forest death is patchy, and research is difficult because of the large areas involved. But the paper, recently published in Forest Ecology and Management, reported that in a 20,000-square-mile savanna in Australia, nearly a third of the trees were dead. In Russia, there was significant die-off within 9,400 square miles of forest. Much of Siberia has warmed by several degrees Fahrenheit in the past half-century, and hot, dry conditions have led to extreme wildfire seasons in eight of the last 10 years. Russian researchers also are concerned that warmer, dryer conditions will lead to increased outbreaks of the Siberian moth, which can destroy large swaths of Russia's boreal forest.

While people in some places have the luxury to doubt whether climate change is real, it's harder to be a doubter in the Rocky Mountains. Glaciers in Glacier National Park and elsewhere are shrinking, winters are warmer and shorter, and the intensity of forest fires is increasing. But the most obvious sign is the red and dead forests that carpet the hills and mountains. They have transformed life in many parts of the Rockies.

It has hit home for me on a personal level. Virtually every one of the hundreds of old-growth ponderosa pines on the 15 acres of land where I live near Helena, Montana is dead, and we are surrounded by a valley of dead and dying forest. Most trees have been logged and taken to a pulp mill, where they were turned into cardboard for boxes.

University of Montana ecologist Steve Running says warmer temperatures in the Rockies bring spring earlier and fall later, each by about a week, yet precipitation has remained about the same. That translates into a drought, and stressed trees are highly susceptible to beetle infestations. Wintertime minimum temperatures in the 1950s, meanwhile, ranged from 40 F to 50 F below zero. That's risen to the 30-below range, and there are fewer days when minimums are reached. It's not getting cold enough anymore to kill the beetles, which over-winter in their larval stage and survive the milder temperatures because they are filled with glycol, a natural anti-freeze.

In addition, the past suppression of fire and the fact that many Western trees are reaching the age at which beetles target them - 80 to 100 years - are also factors in the widespread loss of forests.

So the forests across the West are dying, in such large numbers that U.S. Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar called it the West's Hurricane Katrina. In Colorado and southern Wyoming, the U.S. Forest Service has created an emergency management team to cut down dead trees around towns and along roads and power lines. Forest Service campgrounds and trails have been closed because of the hazard from dead trees, and communities surrounded by dead forests have drawn up emergency evacuation plans for residents.

Large-scale die-offs have occurred in the past. Mountain pine beetles are native to the West and are part of the ecosystem. Lodgepole forests regenerate through large-scale "stand replacing events," which include fire and insects. The die-offs now, though, are on a scale unprecedented since the West was settled and are so big that they are having unusual impacts on ecosystems. The whitebark pine, once largely protected from the beetles because it grew at high altitudes and was shielded by cold, is functionally extinct and may no longer be able to feed grizzly bears and other species that love its high-fat nut. In Mexico, bark beetles are beginning to kill oyamel fir trees in a rare 139,000-acre biosphere preserve where the majority of North America's monarch butterflies travel each fall to spend the winter. So far, about 100 acres in a core area of 33,000 acres have been killed by bark beetles.

Tree-killing bugs aren't the only problem. In 2005 Colorado researchers noticed that aspens were suddenly dying in large numbers. That year they found 30,000 acres of dead aspen forest. The next year there were 150,000 acres, and in 2008 it had soared to 553,000. The die-off is called Sudden Aspen Death, or SAD. "It's growing at an exponential rate," said Wayne Shepperd, who researches aspen for the Forest Service. "It's pretty sobering when you see a whole mountainside or whole drainage of aspen forest dead."

Groves at low elevations and facing south are dying fastest, and scientists believe the cause is hotter temperatures and drier weather. It's not only killing mature trees, but the root mass as well. An aspen grove is the offspring of a large single underground clonal mass, which sends up shoots. "The whole organism is disappearing and it has profound implications," Shepperd said. "When the roots die, groves that are hundreds or thousands of years old aren't going to be there anymore."

If the die-offs continue, the loss of the aspen trees would be a blow to goshawks, songbirds, and a number of other species that find food and refuge in the groves.

Perhaps more than anyone, Craig Allen is familiar with these large-scale forest die-offs. A forest ecologist with the U.S. Geological Survey's Jemez Mountain Field Station in New Mexico, not only are his office and home surrounded by a pinyon die-off, he also is the lead author of the paper - with 19 other authors -published in Forest Ecology and Management, which sought to document and begin to understand what is happening to forests in North America and around the world as the result of climate change.

Coming up with a definitive understanding at this point is impossible, Allen says. Forests are complex, and unfortunately, woefully understudied, and there isn't nearly enough data to draw a conclusion about the reasons behind forest die-offs globally. "There's huge information gaps and uncertainties," says Allen.

What contributors were able to do in the paper is collect anecdotal reports of broad-scale forest mortality from around the world. "The point of this paper is to connect the dots, at least the ones we can connect," says Allen. "We can't even tell you for sure if there's more forest mortality. There's not consistent monitoring."

In 2005 a strong El Nino caused a dramatic drought in the Amazon. It killed forest across the region and is extremely well documented because so many researchers had existing plots there. "The heart of the biggest rainforest in the world turned from a carbon sink to a carbon source," said Allen. "If you have long-term drought you can bleed a lot carbon into the atmosphere."

A lot of beetles can also turn vast tracks of forest from carbon sinks to carbon sources. Take British Columbia, which is ground zero for the mountain pine beetle infestation in North America. Some 53,000 square miles of mature pine forest is dead and the province is projected to lose 80 percent of its mature trees by 2013. The second largest known die-off there occurred in the 1980s and claimed just 2,300 square miles. Bill Wilson - the province's director of Industry, Trade and Economics Research - said he has flown in a plane for hours over the province and seen nothing but dead forest the entire time.

In 2008, so much of British Columbia's forests had died they also went from being a net carbon sink to carbon source.

Diana Six works in Africa where she has seen other die-offs first-hand. "In Africa where I work, suddenly whole hillsides are dropping dead," she said. "It's happening so fast people are in shock. It's a tragedy." Species include the quiver tree, camel-thorn, and the giant euphorbia, a 30-foot-tall succulent. The causes are not known, but the suspects are hotter and drier weather, or shifting rainfall patterns.

All told, the paper that Allen co-authored describes 88 well-documented forest die-offs around the world, going back as far as the 1960s and 1970s, although most are in the 1990s and 2000s.

If there was a way to predict die-offs, Allen said, land managers could take preemptive action, such as mechanical thinning or prescribed burning to increase the vigor of forests.

What gives researchers pause is that many of these large die-offs have occurred with minimal warming, in just a few years. In the West, for example, the average temperature has warmed on average 1.8 F over the past century. "This is before we put two to four degrees centigrade (3.6 F to 7.2 F) into the system," said Allen, referring to forecasts for warming by the end of this century. Trees across the world are stressed already from fragmentation, air pollution, and other problems, he said. "I don't know how much stress the forests of the world can take," said Allen.

© 2010 Yale Environment 360

Jim Robbins is a veteran journalist based in Helena, Montana. He has written for the New York Times, Conde Nast Traveler, and numerous other publications. His fifth book, The Forgotten Forest, about the poorly understood role of trees in the environment, will be published next year by Random House.

This was certainly driven home to me when I went worked on wildfires near Glacier Park, Montana, and Stanley, Idaho, in 2003, and 2006, respectively. I had known both of these areas in the early to mid 1990s as having relatively lush, healthy forest stands of Lodgepole Pine, Englemann Spruce, Subalpine Fir, and Douglas Fir. Things changed drastically in the ten years I was away from those areas. Now, 30-70 percent of all the standing timber in these areas is dead or dying. Heartbreaking to see, really, since I can remember when it was otherwise. The newer trees growing up were mostly Douglas Fir, which is slightly more bug tolerant, and favouring a warmer climate.

Then there was this article, describing the massive garbage gyres in the oceans, but especially the Pacific Ocean, naturally, from a British, not U.S., source.  

The Biggest Dump in the World

As large as the USA, the Great Pacific Waste Patch is the biggest dump in the world. Ed Cumming discovers that it keeps getting bigger, and could be poisoning us all
by Ed Cumming

The world’s biggest rubbish dump keeps growing. The Great Pacific Garbage Patch – or the Pacific Trash Vortex – is a floating monument to our culture of waste, the final resting place of every forgotten carrier bag, every discarded bottle and every piece of packaging blown away in the wind. Opinions about the exact size of this great, soupy mix vary, but some claim it has doubled over the past decade, making it now six times the size of the UK.

Dr Simon Boxall, a physical oceanographer at the National Oceanography Centre at the University of Southampton, goes even further: “It’s the size of North America. But although the patch itself is extremely large, it’s only one very clear representation of the much bigger worldwide problem.”

This global problem is the motive behind the Plastiki, a 60ft, 12-ton catamaran built from 12,500 recycled plastic bottles, which embarks on its maiden voyage from San Francisco this week. The brainchild of David de Rothschild, the flamboyant British banking heir and environmentalist, the Plastiki will sail right through the middle of the Garbage Patch as part of a campaign to help make more people aware of the Pacific’s threatened communities and of the damage our waste is doing to our oceans.

Plastic is the main issue. Fifty years ago, most flotsam was biodegradable. Now it is 90 per cent plastic. In 2006, the United Nations Environment Programme estimated that there were 46,000 pieces of floating plastic in every square mile of ocean. With its stubborn refusal to biodegrade, all plastic not buried in landfills – roughly half of it – sweeps into streams and sewers and then out into rivers and, finally, the ocean. Some of it – some say as much as 70 per cent – sinks to the ocean floor. The remainder floats, usually within 20 metres of the surface, and is carried into stable circular currents, or gyres “like ocean ring-roads”, says Dr Boxall. Once inside these gyres, the plastic is drawn by wind and surface currents towards the centre, where it steadily accumulates. The world’s major oceans all have these gyres, and all are gathering rubbish. Although the North Pacific – bordering California, Japan and China – is the biggest, there are also increasingly prominent gyres in the South Pacific, the North and South Atlantic and the Indian Oceans. Our problems with plastics are only just beginning.

The Pacific Garbage Patch had been predicted as early as the late Eighties but it was only formally discovered in 1997 by Charles Moore, an American yacht-racing captain sailing home across the North Pacific from a competition in Hawaii. He noticed a large amount of debris in the centre of the gyre, and together with the oceanographer, Curtis Ebbesmeyer, formulated the idea of the Eastern Garbage Patch. Other research revealed a secondary patch to the West, and these two together constitute the Great Pacific Patch, located roughly between 135-155°W and 35-45°N. In 1999, Moore followed up his initial findings with a report showing that there was eight times as much plastic as plankton in the North Pacific. And there is a lot of plankton.

The image of a great floating mound of trash, though evocative, can be misleading. Dr Boxall says: “People imagine it as a kind of football pitch of rubbish you can go and walk on – it’s not like that.” As most of the plastic has been broken down into tiny particles, floating beneath the surface, it is impossible to photograph from aircraft or satellites, or even really to see until you are right in its centre. As a result, it is difficult to convey the grave danger this 100 million tons or so of rubbish – and counting – presents. This is where the Plastiki – named after Thor Heyerdahl’s Kon-Tiki project in 1947 – comes in. Its crew of six is being skippered by the rising star of British ocean sailing, Jo Royle, 29. Ms Royle is everything you could want at the figurehead of your mission: blonde, vivacious and – behind a Lancastrian burr that survived her upbringing in Devon – a passionate environmentalist. She seems unfazed about sailing slap bang into the middle of the watery skip of the world.

“I can’t wait to get there,” she says. “Being in the middle of the ocean puts you back in your place – if you’re not responsive, you don’t survive. It makes you think hard about how you consume.”

However, she readily concedes that it is easy for the layman to ask: “So what?” Some might be tempted to argue that the rubbish has to end up somewhere, and that the ocean is no worse than landfill. Herein lies the main danger: plastic does not biodegrade, but when exposed to sunlight it photo-degrades, breaking down into smaller and smaller particles, and finally to “nurdles”, the industry name for the tiny grains that are the building blocks of most modern plastics. These tiny particles are not harmful on their own, but they are very absorbent, and soak up waterborne toxins, such as pesticides and cooling agents. These nurdles, now saturated in poisons, are eaten by filter-feeders at the very bottom of the food chain, and then make their way up it.

The scale of the toxin problem is unknown. Although plastics have now been around for a century, their use has only been really widespread for 50 years. Also, the threat is not only from food – marine extracts are used in countless other products too: particularly cosmetics. Since there are so many possible routes for toxins from these plastics to enter our food chain, there has yet to be an in-depth scientific study of their possible effect on humans. But these particles are certainly killing marine life: the UN estimates that more than one million birds and 100,000 mammals die every year from plastics – by poisoning, entanglement and choking. There are also studies under way investigating the possible connection between a rise in fertility problems and cancers, and the proliferation of plastic in the ocean.

The solution is equally confounding – there is just so much junk. Most experts agree that the real change needs to come above ground, from people taking more responsibility for their dumping.

As Ms Royle says: “The four worst-offending plastics – carrier bags, bottle-tops, bottles and styrofoam – are some we could easily do without, with a bit more thought. It’s just about making the effort to change our habits: not getting chips in a styrofoam container, reusing carrier bags – small things.”

There are some – led by the renowned American environmentalist and National Geographic Explorer-at-large Sylvia Earle– who think that we should simply try not to use plastics at all. Ms Royle dismisses this approach: “Plastic is a part of our world, and it’s hugely important.”

Others would like the US government to embark on an operation to clean the ocean manually, using tankers to retrieve the plastic, which could then be used as fuel.

“I don’t think that’s a very good idea,” says Ms Royle. “It would take a tremendous amount of resources to sweep the ocean. If you then burn the plastic, you create a lot of black carbon dioxide, which pollutes the atmosphere. I think the solution has to come from the shore.” She points out that San Francisco, the city closest to the Great Pacific Patch, has successfully implemented policies to stop people using wasteful plastics. “If they can do it, so can we. We just need to stop all this dumb usage.”

Dr Boxall is decidedly less optimistic: “There is nothing we can do,” he says. “It’s too big. It’s here to stay. It’s like nuclear waste. Even an oil spillage, disastrous as it is, eventually breaks down. Plastic doesn’t. We’ve simply got to become better about how we dispose of waste.”

The Plastiki team hopes its voyage can make a difference, however small. But until something drastically changes – particularly in developing countries, such as China and Brazil – the ocean will continue to bear the brunt of our wasteful ways with plastic. The Great Pacific Garbage Patch, and its growing imitators around the world, will continue to sprawl.

© Copyright of Telegraph Media Group Limited 2010

These are both critical environmental issues. That need immediate attention. One thing overlooked by many, when faced with these looming crises, is overpopulation. We absolutely must reduce the number of people on this Earth, or it will be done for us, by catastrophic means. But, in the bigger picture, changing our spiritual paradigms, about what is really valuable, and right. Do profits for corporations matter more than the health of the planet and it's future carrying capacity for human beings? If the profit motive was removed or regulated strongly enough in different areas, energy, and transportation, for instance, healthier alternatives would be developed and implemented faster. Remember what the deregulation of the energy sector brought California (think Enron) from 2000-2005? Rolling blackouts and higher prices brought about by corporations manipulating the power grid, and deliberately holding back at certain times. Then lying about it. Is that the system that is going to give us the renewable energy network we need to reduce CO2 and methane emissions?

How long can we continue to live under a system that is "out of balance"? Cheers.

p.s. we'll go more into our future vision of 2040 North America over the next few weeks and months.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

161 VERSUS 183 - A FIELD TEST

Nordic skate skiing is one of my favourite pastimes here in Interior Alaska. However, it has some drawbacks, as opposed to the traditional, classic cross-country skiing (which I also greatly enjoy). First, you need a relatively flat and at least partially groomed surface, without more than a few cm of loose snow on top. Second, the trail must generally be about two metres wide, and third, to get effective glide for efficient, fast, and fun skating, the temperature really needs to be warmer than -20C (-4F), and preferably, warmer than -15C (+5F).

Then, our nordic ski trail systems around Fairbanks, groomed for skating, don't allow canines on them, even if they are assistant editors and research assistants for prestigious on-line reviews. And, the local rivers (Tanana and Chena) can have high amounts of fast snowmachine traffic on weekends, posing a hazard for Homer and Mattie. So, when I was in my latest ski class last week (your lead editor is a professional ski student, been taking lessons for six years now, with no end in sight!), a very knowledgeable local expert, Jim Lokken, told me about some short skate skis on clearance at our local sport shop.

They are called "jibskate" skis, Fischer brand. On Fischer's web-site, it says they are for free-style skating and acrobatics. Jim said he got some a few years ago and has been able to skate on narrower trails than with his regular skate skis. Here you can see the difference. My regular skate skis are 183 cm long, the Fischer jibskates are only 161 cm. The are a little on the heavy side, but they have great camber, which  helps make up for their short length, by absorbing most of the energy of your push, with each skate stride, and transferring it to the snow surface.

So, I got these last weekend, for a fraction of their normal price. This past tuesday then, I  decided to test them out on some narrower, canine-friendly, but not too heavily used (at least on a weekday) snow-machine packed trails.


First stop was a portion of the Yukon Quest trail, near Chena Hot Springs, about 90 km east of Fairbanks. The Yukon Quest is the toughest, coldest, mushing race in Alaska, from Fairbanks to Whitehorse, Yukon, every February. It's usually much colder during this race, than for the Iditarod, which is currently ongoing, from near Anchorage, to Nome.

We drove out to the Chena Dome trailhead, which is about 10 km west of Chena Hot Springs. The Yukon Quest trail intersects it, only a few hundred metres in. Unfortunately, a large area of overflow ice was in our way, right off the bat.

So we had to carefully edge around that, as I did not want to ice up the gliding surface of the skate skis, which would then collect snow, and really slow me down. It was about -13C (+12F) when we started around 1030 in the morning.
As you can see, the trail was pretty narrow, only about a metre wide. With my regular skate skis, it would have been difficult, to impossible, to execute the main technique for skating on the flats, the V2 stride. Which is where you push off with both poles to each side, with each kick that you make. It almost does look a little like ice skating, but with longer implements on your feet, and poles in your hands.

However, with the shorter skis, I was actually able to V2, not fully, as the trail wasn't quite wide enough, but partially. This alone, helped me to go quite a bit faster, than if I was on my classic skis, kicking each one straight ahead, and poling with the opposite hand. There were a few short gentle uphill sections though, in the 16 km section that we skated out on. Unfortunately, one metre trail width is not wide enough to V1, which is the uphill stride. Where you lean further out over each ski as you kick uphill, and plant your poles on just one side, leaving the other side just a kick, without a pole push. You have to have your skis in a wider stance to do this. So, I ended up having to really use my arms alot to keep from sliding back, while I tried to V1 in a faster tempo. Not ideal for long distances. Jim L. said he sometimes puts grip wax on the kick zone of these skis, so he can use a classic stride to go uphill. But it does slow down the skating somewhat on the flats and downhills he said.

After about 16km, or just over 90 minutes (1.5 to 2X faster than if I had been on classic skis), I had to turn around. The trail was getting too narrow for any skating at all. If I was on some kind of race or back-country outing, at this point I would have to put grip wax on, and go into a classic stride, if I would want to continue. However, I wanted to solely test the skating properties of these skis, so I didn't do that.

We got back to the trailhead after our just over 3 hour 32km outing (including a 15 min. lunch stop), wanting more time out. It was getting colder as well, a mini-"Arctic Front" was coming through, with light snow and west winds bringing colder air in. The temperature had dropped to -17C (+5F) when we finished, and I could tell my glide was not quite as good, since my glide wax was for warmer conditions. Mattie and Homer too, were itching for more trail time.

So, we drove through some near white-out conditions to the Elliott Highway, which we then took 50 km north, to the main trailhead for the BLM White Mountains National Recreation Area.
http://www.blm.gov/ak/st/en/prog/nlcs/white_mtns.html
This is the NRA that has several cabins on an extensive trail system, that people can reserve and stay in, after skiing, snowmachining, biking, or hiking in. When we got to the Wickersham Dome trailhead at 1600 in the afternoon, the temperature had dropped to -19C (-2F), and there was a couple of cm of stiff new powder on the trail.

These trails are a little wider, packed down by more snowmachine traffic. About 1.5 to 2 metres wide. I've skated on my 183 cm skis here before, but had to actually take them off and walk, on narrower, uphill sections. On the gentle uphill slants like this, I was able to execute a decent V1, and keep up a regular pace. Even with the reduced glide from the colder temperature and stiff new powder.

But when we got to a steeper uphill section, about 8 km in, I couldn't keep up my V1, the trail just wasn't quite wide enough. So I had to duckwalk, or herring-bone up, which is very slow and awkward. That is when we decided to turn back.

Most of the 8km back to the trailhead were flat or downhill, which made for a very fast return. All in all, this was a great test, of these new skis. And we would recommend them for anyone who wants to be able to skate on narrower trails.

Our next step, is to "hybridise" them, by applying grip wax to the kick zone on the ski base, and see how well that works to allow us to do a classic stride uphill, and if, or how much, this will slow our skating, on the flats, and downhills. We'll give you a full report after we complete that test. Cheers.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

VERS UNE AMERIQUE DU NORD GENTER 2040

The title of our article today, translated from the French, is "Toward a gentler North America, 2040". It's in French, because we here at the Alaska Progressive Review, admire Canada, as a healthier (but by no means perfect), gentler country, than the U.S. A Social Democracy, with universal health coverage, and more strictly regulated capitalism, in general. Which is why their economy is much healthier than ours now, they have strict regulations disallowing banks to venture into risky, destructive, loaning and investing programs, unlike those in the U.S.

Growing up in the 1970s, in San Diego, I suppose some people from other parts of the U.S. would think that my junior and senior high school education would have been very "liberal", biased with "revisionist" history. But that really wasn't the case, I think. The history and social studies curriculum did change quite a bit in the 1970s, all over the U.S., as our society liberalised, in general, to teach slightly more about the real history on this continent, concerning for example, what happened with the indigenous people. But not nearly enough.

I didn't read historian Dee Brown's shattering compilation of stories from indigenous peoples on this continent, "Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee", (first published in 1970) until 1990, when I was 25.
http://www.powells.com/biblio/1-9781402760662-1  It brought tears to my eyes on many occasions, documenting the broken treaties, forced relocations, battles, and massacres that occurred from 1492 until 1890 (the massacre at Wounded Knee, South Dakota). This massacre occurred when troops fired on a fleeing defenseless band of Lakota Souix people, killing over 300, well over half of whom where women and children. 
As we have mentioned before, if all the treaties with indigenous people that the U.S. government ratified through Congress, and signed by the President, but were later broken, were forced to be honoured, the U.S. would cease to exist, as we know it. And indigenous people in the U.S. are still suffering, with the highest infant mortality rates, unemployment, and lowest life expectancies, of any group, on their reservations.

In fact, one of the World's most well-known political prisoners, Leonard Peltier, resides in Leavenworth Federal Prison, where he was framed for the murders of two FBI agents, on the Pine Ridge Lakota Reservation, in 1975. http://www.leonardpeltier.net/newsroom.htm  He has garnered support from people and well-known figures world-wide, such as Desmond Tutu of South Africa, and the Dalai Lama. Yet he has been denied parole every year since 1980, and will probably die in prison. His story makes for heartbreaking reading.

Another book we were never exposed to, growing up, is USMC Lt. General Smedley Butler's shattering expose of the wars and subversions the U.S. was involved in when he was in the prime of his career from 1905-1930. "War is a Racket". http://www.powells.com/biblio/18-9780060838652-0  This should be mandatory reading for every U.S. citizen, as should be "Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee". Butler's book documents how all the invasions and subversions of many Latin American countries he was involved in, were for corporate interests, and how they all profited. He also documented how the corporate world and politicians benefitted from World War I as well. It makes for sad, but eye-opening reading. The publisher's description reads:

"Smedley Butler took his Constitutional vows seriously, repelling threats to America both without and within. Shortly after retiring from a lauded career, the popular Marine brought down a Fascist corporate plot to sieze the White House. Concerned for the future of Democracy, Butler began to speak out against the venal motives behind many of this country's military actions. Written during the Great Depression, War is a Racket pulls no punches against a corrupt military-industrial complex, eager to murder both foreign and native-born  children for the sake of profit. This edition includes two other anti-intervention screeds written by Butler, in addtion to photographs taken from the astonishing 1932 antiwar book, The Horror of It. Adam Parfrey's introduction reveals names suppressed from a Congressional investigation that verified the right-wing coup plotted against President Franklin D. Roosevelt by corporate bigwigs."

And unfortunately, nothing has really changed, since this book was written, as several of our previous articles will attest.
http://akprogressive.blogspot.com/2010/01/remembering-what-he-died-for.html The current Democratic, Obama administration, is in every way, just an extension of the previous Republican Bush administration, with a more eloquent speaker at the head, the only substantive difference. Consider. Obama's administration is packed with the same banking/financial criminals who through their greedy, short-sighted actions nearly derailed not just the U.S., but the global economy, and who continue to receive "bail-outs" from the government. The insane U.S. defense budget, which is over $700 billion annually, over 8 times that of the next largest country's, China's, continues to rise every year. The immoral, and illegal invasion and occupation of the sovereign country of Iraq, in which over a million innocent civilians have died, continues apace, with no apologies or acknowledgement of the crimes committed, including torture. And, further escalation in the empire-destroying country of Afghanistan also continues, for no real reason (except corporate profits and political gain). Both of these imperial actions are costing hundreds of billions of dollars annually, with no end in sight.

When "health-care reform" was to be a highlight of the new administration, what has come out has been a capitulation to the greedy, deadly, health insurance companies, whose sole purpose in existence seems to be denying coverage whenever possible to people in need, to maximise profits. And, no recision of the unconstitutional Patriot act has been attempted, or even criticism of previous officials of the Bush Administration, when they tried to justify it, and tortures committed as part of the Iraq and Afghanistan misadventures.

Since both the Democratic and Republican parties are thoroughly under corporate domination, and the corporate media won't allow third parties any significant exposure, nothing seems likely to change in the U.S. Which means that at some point, it will bankrupt itself, or other countries will be forced to work together to force it to change. Which could easily be done economically. If China were to stop supporting our economy by investing in our currency, and if the global oil market were to switch to pricing in Euros, instead of Dollars, this country would be destitute, and would be unable to support it's bloated military and imperial actions. Much like what happened to the Soviet Union, in the 1980s.

This probably will happen at some point. Because the greedy corporations and oligarchs who actually control U.S. policy are not going to change, and the U.S. population is just too misinformed, apathetic (some say lazy, but we at A.P.R. think that is not entirely the case), and splintered into mistrustful ethnic/class groupings to come together and force real changes.

We think this will happen within three decades, if not sooner, helped along by people like this:
I think this satirical political sticker says it all, about her and her supporters, don't you?

To prepare you for this eventuality, for the past few weeks, we have been working on our vision of what a kinder, gentler North America will look like, by 2040, after the forced dissolution of the U.S., brought about by it's unsustainable greed and exceptionalist mentality, and concerted actions by the rest of the World.
We will tell you the story of this future history, how this continental realinement comes about, and describe each of these interesting, and some very different, smaller nations, in future articles. Stay tuned. Cheers.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

WHEN IT'S MAY IN FEBRUARY [and] GOING WITH THE (chinook) FLOW II

WHEN IT'S MAY IN FEBRUARY

We had an interesting warm spell over the past week, here in Interior Alaska, so much so, that we feel the need to examine it in some depth.                                
Warm spells occur here every winter of course, and give us a welcome break from temperatures of -20 to -45C. This winter has been quite mild, our cold spells have been very short, only 3-5 days in duration, generally, separated by two to three week periods of much milder conditions, brought on by a weather pattern, like this, to the left. When a strong high pressure ridge builds north along the west coast of North America, and mild subtropical air flows north, all the way through Alaska to the Arctic.

This chart, above, shows a strong ridge that did just that, over the past 10 days, and brought very mild air north over Alaska. On Friday and Saturday, 19-20 February, surface temperatures reached 8-14C (46-58F!) over much of Interior Alaska, including here at the Chena Ridge Research Center, where we reached 8C. These temperatures are 15-20C (27-36F) above average for this time of year.  This chart, to the right, is the temperature and wind-profile, from the twice-daily radiosonde balloon release, in Fairbanks, from friday afternoon, 20 Feb. These are done in thousands of places world-wide, at 00 and 1200 Greenwhich Mean Time. These "soundings" provide the backbone of the data set for the supercomputer-based weather forecast models, which provide meteorologists with forecast charts for different atmospheric parameters and levels, going out as far as 10 days ahead (though accuracy rapidly diminishes after 3 days, and much more so after day 5). 

What the above upper-air profile is showing, is a very pronounced bubble of above-freezing air in the lower atmosphere here over Interior Alaska. The thick black line, on the left, is the temperature, measured by the balloon, as it ascends. You can see that it remains to the right of the light blue 0C line, up to about 2200 metres (7200 ft.). Meaning, that the free-air freezing level at this time, was around 2200 metres! This is unprecendented, in my experience, forecasting here in Fairbanks. And why, on this day, surface temperatures were so warm. This atmospheric "sounding", in fact, looks more like one we would see in May, than mid-February. The black temperature line, decreasing with height, shows a sharp break at 11,300 metres. This marks the top of the troposphere, the lower layer of the atmosphere where active weather occurs. This "tropopause" (height where the troposphere transitions into the stratosphere) height of 11,300 metres, is almost 3000 metres higher than average, for this time of year, in Alaska. Meaning, the troposphere is much deeper, because the air-mass is so much warmer, throughout its depth.

What was it about this ridging pattern that made it so warm here? This infrared satellite image from fri. afternoon 19 Feb. tells the story. You can see the clear skies over British Columbia and the Yukon, under the high pressure ridge. Over the Pacific and Gulf of Alaska, two low pressure systems are present. As these lows move north, in the southerly flow on the front side of the ridge, they transport very mild air northward, in their wake, after their passage. And reinforce the mild air. The longer this pattern remains, the warmer the airmass becomes, over Alaska.

Interior Alaska is locked in a drought pattern, caused by frequent occurrences of this pattern, since last spring. The period from last July, to mid Feb., is the fourth driest since accurate precipitation records began, here in Fairbanks (around 1920). Only 11.5 cm of precip. has occurred (of which, only 53 cm of snow has fallen, about a third of average). March and April are typically the driest months in Interior Alaska, so the odds are not in favour of any relief from this. And hence, when our Boreal Forest awakens from it's winter dormancy this May, it will have much less moisture to work with, for new growth and general health. If a dry pattern continues into May, June, and July, another very bad fire season will occur here. We hope this won't happen!

In our last article, while we were discussing the nightmarish environmental conditions produced in China by their embracing of unrestrained Capitalism (in a supposedly Socialistic country!), we mentioned it's pollution travelling across the Pacific, to the western U.S. Well, here's a good article that came out today describing the latest research on that issue.

It seems like we are always at least a week ahead of other sources providing you with insightful and important information, here at the Alaska Progressive Review! Stick with us...

GOING WITH THE (chinook) FLOW II
A.P.R.'s favourite adventure and travel companion, Erik, and I had decided back in Dec., that we would like to ski in, if possible, to the Maclaren lodge, 67km west of Paxson, on the Denali Highway, in mid-February, but only if it was "warm" (above about -15C or so), because we wanted to skate ski, which is faster than classic skiing. The Denali Highway is closed to automobile traffic in winter, unmaintained by the Alaska DOT. But, the Maclaren lodge usually grooms it with a snow-groomer, providing a wide, level track for snowmachiners and skiers. Because there is alot of high-speed snowmachine traffic on the highway, Mattie and Homer had to stay back at the Chena Ridge Research Centre. We didn't want to jeopardise their safety, as sometimes snowmachines can be speeding along at 130-150 kph!
When we saw the warm spell coming together around 08 Feb., we finalised our plans. We'd meet the next fri. night in Paxson, stay the night there, then ski out to Maclaren sat., stay there sun. 2/14, and ski back out monday. Things went according to plan, we spent a nice night in a Denali Highway Cabin http://www.denalihwy.com/, then got up and hit the highway at 0900, on our skate skis.

Unfortunately, I had not called ahead about the highway conditions. After only about a half-km on our skate skis with our 20 kg packs on, we realised, this wasn't doable on the narrow, bumpy track, that wasn't groomed. Had we known, we could have brought our classic skis, and made it in just fine that way, though it would have taken several hours longer.

But, Erik is very resourceful, and forward-thinking. He brought along his little 25 year old Skidoo snowmachine, named Patrick. Very simple mechanically, with a small 300cc or so engine, no gages, and only a pull-start. Yet Patrick always starts on the first pull. So, we went back to Erik's truck, and loaded all our packs and skis onto the back of Patrick, started him up, and headed out. He ran smoothly the whole way. We had to go fairly slowly, with our precarious load, on the sometimes narrow, bumpy, and curved route, only about 35-50 kph.

It was fairly mild at the start, -10C or so, and after about 12km, we had to stop and readjust the load, at this beautiful point, with expansive views of the Alaska Range back to the east and north. I was starting to get a little cold though, mainly because I neglected to bring my insulated glacier pants, since I'd thought we'd be skiing. My knees began to get quite cold.
By the time we got to this point, at the top of Maclaren Summit, about 10 km from the lodge, my knees were numb and I could barely walk. We had to stop a few times to warm up. It was a little colder here, probably -15C or so (+5F). The warmer air aloft hadn't fully mixed down to the surface yet. Still, the view north here to Maclaren glacier, emanating from 4217 metre Mt. Hayes (13,832 ft.) in the distance, was sure beautiful.
We got to the lodge at noon after about a two-hour trip on Patrick, with three stops to warm up and readjust our shifting load of packs and skis.  Erik's skillful pilotage of the machine kept us safe and level on the sometimes bumpy track (he used to be an avid snowmachiner many years ago, and it showed).   We rushed right into the lodge and warmed up next to the big woodstove to thaw our cold hands, feet, and knees. Maclaren lodge is open year-round. When the highway is open to cars and buses, alot of tourists stop in, and hunters, in the fall, looking to take a caribou from the large Nelchina herd, that roams the vast expanse of open tundra.  

We had just missed the tail-end of the Denali Double 200 dog-mushing race. Teams departed from Paxson, went down the highway to Cantwell, then back to Paxson. So the staff at the lodge were very tired, from serving the mushers and helping out with the dog teams.

I inquired about the highway grooming situation. It seems their groomer, here, a very expensive and large one, acquired from the Whistler Ski Area in BC (yes, the Whistler, of Olympic fame), is down for the moment mechanically. But, their also isn't really enough snow anyway for it, it needs close to a metre or more of snow depth, and there was only about half that on the highway.
We had reserved a little cabin, but were a little taken aback by the fly situation. It was infested with blackflies. I would leave the door open to freeze them out, then sweep them up and throw them outside. But after that, in a few hours, a new batch appeared! Finally I gave up, and we just endured the two nights with them in there. It would require opening up the cabin for a day or two with temperatures of -30C or so, to freeze all of them and their eggs, out of every nook and cranny.  
After warming up and unpacking, a couple hours later, we decided to at least see how skiing would be on the highway from the lodge, without packs on. I put on my skate skis and pushed out just about 13 km west on the highway, then headed back. It was quite bumpy and narrow in sections, so I knew we had made the right decision to snowmachine in. Erik met up with me on my way back to the lodge, and snapped this as I headed up a short hill. Skating is my favourite form of nordic skiing, because you can go so much faster, and further, with less energy expenditure, once your technique evolves, and when conditions are good. 

 On the way back to the lodge, as the sun began to set, I was rewarded with a view of Mt.Hayes pink in the rays of the setting sun. Had to stop for a picture of that! Sunday the 14th dawned cloudy and cool at the lodge, still only about -15C or so.

After a leisurely breakfast and a few hours of reading and relaxation, we decided to run back east up the highway, to Maclaren summit, 10km, and further, if we felt up to it, then back. Since skiing conditions weren't the greatest. Once we got on the valley slope 100 metres or so higher, the warmer chinook winds were blowing, and it felt much warmer. 
The Denali Highway is the second highest roadway in Alaska, because of this, Maclaren Summit. The only higher one is on the Dalton Highway (of Ice Road Truckers fame), Atigun Pass, at 1463 m (4800 ft). Running on the loose-packed snow on the highway was extremely taxing, like being on beach sand, so I only ran up 11 km, then turned back. Erik though is used to this, running in Valdez, which gets so much more snow than Fairbanks, so he was able to go out 14 km, before heading back. As you can see here, south of the Denali Highway is a vast expanse of open semi-tundra; swampy country, broken up by hills and low mountain ranges, for over 200 km, until you get to the higher Talkeetna and Chugach mountain ranges, and then the milder, wet coast along the Gulf of Alaska.  
We enjoyed another nice evening in the lodge sun. after being out part of the day. The food there was pretty basic, as you might expect in a place that has no auto traffic for half the year. But not bad, considering. The other guests, 5-10 or so, had all snowmachined in as well, so we talked with them. There is a full bar there, but I was able to discipline myself, and not cut loose too much, though it was tempting. 
Sunday night, the chinook winds came up in full force through the valley, and shook the cabin, waking me up around 0300. It warmed up to about -2C, so when we packed up for the ride back out to Paxson, at 0900, we knew it would be an easier, more comfortable trip. 

This time too, we decided to wear our packs, with both sets of skis strapped to mine, rather than bundle everything up on the small rack behind me. On the way in, my lower back got quite bruised from bumping the metal rack. This way, it was protected, and we didn't have to stop to readjust the load. 

It was definitely the way to go. We were both much more comfortable, in the warmer conditions, and my back wasn't getting battered. During our trip back, other snowmachines heading west would sometime zip past us so fast, by the time I noticed them, they had passed! They must have easily been going at least 130 kph! Near Tangle lakes, about 35 km east of Maclaren, we stopped and watched as some of the Nelchina herd of caribou crossed the highway. We saw hundreds of them here in August, 2008, when Mattie and I packed around for a few days north of Maclaren Summit, near Sevenmile Lake.  

This was the trip when little 20 kg 15 month old Mattie ran off a 150 kg large bull caribou nosing around our camp, unhappy at our presence in "his" area. Before I could stop her, she charged after him, running up and around him, barking. He could have dispatched her with one kick, but fortunately decided to run off. Mattie is not as large, or imposing, as Homer, with his wolfy presence, but our intrepid assistant editor has a strong, courageous heart, and epic endurance. 

So, even though we were not able to skate ski in to the Maclaren Lodge, like we had hoped, we had a nice weekend getaway to a beautiful place in the Alaska Range, where few people travel. Had we known beforehand we probably would have brought our classic skis, and skied in to the lodge. Because then we could have skied in to near the Maclaren glacier, here. It pays to call ahead!
The mild weather of course, greatly helped our enjoyment of this trip. But we know, it is coming at a price. More frequent mild chinook/southerly flow patterns like this are allowing our more of our permafrost to melt, releasing more CO2 and methane, positive feedbacks to global warming, and not allowing the Arctic sea ice to freeze as thick each winter. Leading to increased melting each summer. Which will lead to ice-free summer conditions in the Arctic Ocean, within a decade. Another positive feedback. Cheers.