WHAT LIES BETWEEN
When your lead author moved to Juneau, back in 1998, I flew up, and my household goods were barged in. Since that time, on all my trips to the lower 48 to see friends and family, I flew over what lies between. I decided it was time to actually see what lies between on the ground, spend some time in it, and get to know it. What lies between Alaska and the lower 48? Well, for us westerners, that is the Canadian province of British Columbia, which is almost as large as Alaska, and contains many amazing natural features.
Our great friend of the Alaska Progressive Review, Erik Hursh, decided to accompany me on this exploration, whilst Mattie and Homer would stay home at the Chugach Front Research Centre, keeping an eye on things.
The plan was to drive south along the Cassiar highway, in western B.C., to Vancouver, then north, back up through the Canadian Rockies, including Banff and Jasper, taking the Alaska Highway further north, back to the Yukon. We were anticipating 12-14 days. With stops for running, hiking, and biking, and whatever else grooved us. The A.P.R. cruiser, a Honda Element, has a nifty feature. Namely, that the front and rear seats fold flat, into two sleeping areas. So, that was to be our shelter.
After driving to Erik's bluff cabin above the Copper River, near Copper Center on a nice cool, sunny fall day, this past 25 September, the next day dawned cool and cloudy. By the time we left that day around 1100, it was snowing hard, and around -2C (29F). As we approached the Canadian border near Tok, the roads were getting icy, and several cm of snow were accumulating on the ground. Rounding a curve just a few km from the border, Erik had to jam the breaks. A bad accident had just occurred. A small car and large U-Haul truck had collided and were in the ditch on our side. We were barely able to stop in time. As we crept past, I observed a man on the ground, with people looking at him. A sheet was pulled over him. I had Erik stop and asked a man who approached if there was anyone there with medical training. I used to be an EMT in one of the Fairbanks V.F.D.'s some years back. He said yes, he did. I said "he's dead, isn't he". And the man nodded. There was nothing we could do, though we did move back the safety reflector in the road behind the accident, to allow others more time to slow down, around that dangerous curve. This definitely put us in a down mood for awhile, and certainly made us be very cautious about driving in the winter conditions.
When we stopped for the night at a campground near Kluane Lake in the Yukon, it was brutal. -4C and 90 kph winds (25F and 50 mph)! Quite an introduction to winter so early, on 26 September! The APR cruiser, seen above, was crusted with a thick coating of slush/ice on the lower parts. But ensconced in our -20F down sleeping bags, in the Element, Erik and I were quite comfortable.
Our second day of driving dawned just as cold/windy. As we got further south toward Haines Junction, the snow was even deeper, 10 cm or more. But then, as we turned east and got into Whitehorse, one of our favourite spots, it warmed to slightly above freezing. We decided to break for a bit, run, and clean up after. There is an awesome public sports centre just outside town, containing an ice rink, water slides, pools, steamroom, sauna, and fitness equipment. We did a nice 12K run on the nordic ski trails outside this, in the cool 0C snow, then warmed up and cleaned up in the pools and sauna, followed by a shower. Worth every bit of the 7.00 Canadian we paid. Why don't Anchorage and Fairbanks have facilities like these?
The next couple days took us through the rest of the Yukon, then south down the Cassiar Highway, through Western BC, but still inland from the coastal range. As we got further south, it warmed up to well above freezing, and the trees also began getting bigger.
By the time we were south of Dease Lake, approaching 57N, and then 56N latititude, the boreal forest species of white/black spruce, aspen, birch, and cottonwood, began mixing with, and then being replaced by the warmer Rocky Mountain species types. Englemann Spruce, Lodgepole Pine, Subalpine Fir, Western Hemlock, and Western Red Cedar. Beautiful to see, as above, especially in areas where old growth was still present. Our third night's camp in this area, above, was at around 57N, a few hours south of Dease Lake, and very beautiful. The snow line was higher on the mountains here, than near Dease Lake.
As we dropped further south the next day (day 4), we cut inland, heading toward Smithers. Here, a little further inland, at only 55N latitude, it was even warmer, around 12C (54F), and sunny, very beautiful. These awesome 2000-2500 metre peaks to the south of the highway made a beautiful vertical wall.
I had heard good things about Smithers, BC over the years, and as we approached, Erik and I could see why.
It is backed by 2500-2800 metre glaciated peaks, and yet has open space with farms, ranches, and lakes all around. A very beautiful, lush, pastoral place, with a climate similar to, but slightly cooler and wetter, than western Montana. We did a nice 90 min. run around a lake there, followed by a hot shower in a campground. During our run, we ran right past a black bear in a field, just enjoying the fall sunshine.We kept driving after this for a few more hours though, sleeping in a nice wooded pull-out, on the highway heading toward Prince George.
By the end of day 5, after pushing through Prince George, a pretty, large Fairbanks-sized town (60,000 or so) on the Fraser River, and then down through the progressively drier and warmer southern interior, we came to a very interesting place in the canyon of the Fraser River, just north of 50N.
As you can see here, the Fraser River flows through a deep canyon, and the mountains to the west put this area in a strong rain shadow. It is almost as warm and dry here as in parts of Eastern Washington, much further south. We spent the night in the little native town of Llilouet, sleeping under the stars in the cool, dry, bugless (!) air. Falling asleep watching shooting stars and satellites. Something not often done in buggy, wet, Alaskan summers!
The next day, we pushed over the steep coastal mountains, past upscale Whistler, with all its ski-resort amenities, and dropped down to the coastal area north of BC. In gorgeous 21C (70F) sunshine! This is about 50 km north of Vancouver, looking across the Strait of Georgia. Reminds me of the time I spent in Juneau, I miss those beautiful beach areas, and driftwood fires. But not that coastal weather!
The descent into Vancouver on BC highway 99 (which is an extension of US Interstate 5), became increasingly
clogged with cars. By the time we actually got into the city, it was urban madness. We weren't sure how much actual time we would spend there, but quickly decided a very short stay would occur. We navigated through the busy city to Stanley Park, a beautiful old growth forest preserve on the north edge of downtown, with gardens and museums in it as well. We did a nice 90 min. run through the majestic old growth of douglas fir and western hemlock. I was almost overheating, it was 23C (75F!), on 01 October! Some of these trees were easily 75 metres (250 ft) tall.
In spite of the busy city, there were some interesting things. Someone took the time and energy to raise a nice pine tree on their rooftop area. It must be 15 metres tall, and 30 or more years old.
OK, this is why Erik and I are not all that much into cities, and why we'll never live in big ones. This is heading east out of Vancouver, that same day, on Trans-Canada Highway 1. There are only two real freeways serving the Vancouver metro area, which has at least 4 million people! Traffic was like this for about 50 km east of the city and through the eastern suburbs.
We made great time that day, going north all the way to dry, dusty, Yakima-like Kamloops (yearly precip. only 27 cm, or 10.5 in.!), then east another 80 km or so. We spent the night on a pull-off above the Yellowhead Highway, which heads into the Canadian Rockies.
The next day, day 6, saw us push through Revelstoke, and into Glacier National Park, BC version. This is much more beautiful and majestic than the Montana one. Namely because the mountains are higher, and actually have real glaciers.
We did a nice two hour hike up a trail just past Rogers Pass in the morning, enjoying the beautiful views, such as this, of this razor-sharp peak in the late-morning sun. We probably ascended 700 metres (2000 feet) on this one, it was quite steep, but well worth the effort.
We were making good time that day though, and headed for the Canadian Rockies. Specifically, we intended to stay in the upscale resort town of Banff, here, then drive north on the Icefields Parkway the next day, heading north back to Alaska.
We got to Banff in late afternoon. It is pretty big, at least 10,000 or so, and full of upscale shops and restaurants. They have a world-famous film festival there every February, and of course, rich and famous people the World over come there to ski and vacation. We found a nice campground, got a good hour run in, cleaned up, and hit the town! Time for a fancy meal and to check things out. It was fun, but so different, being around all those fancy shops and places, clogged with people from all over the World. Not really our scene, too hectic and gentrified. But a beautiful area, to be sure.
The next day, it was time to head north, on the icefields parkway, toward Jasper. This amazing road has two passes over 2000 metres, which at these latitudes, 51-53N, is quite high. The road passes along the eastern side of the higher mountains in the range, which are extensively glaciated.
One of our favourite views was the mirrored gem of Bow Lake, which lies at nearly 2000 metres (6560 ft). We lucked out to have a windless day here, so that the full effect was visible.
Further north, about 40 KM or so from Bow Lake, lies the Columbia Icefield, a large glacial area fed by the snows from the higher peaks. We parked at the visitors centre for the Athabasca Glacier, and walked and biked up to it. Erik decided to actually bike on it! My shoes didn't have very good traction on the wet, slippery ice, so I stayed further back.
This large glacier has been in fast retreat for the past 80 years, and will be almost gone in 70 or so more years.
The Icefields Parkway traverses the eastern side of the crest of the Canadian Rockies, and is a must-see for anyone able. We got to the beautiful smaller resort town of Jasper in late afternoon. It is much more low-key and quieter than Banff, and was much more to our liking. After a lunch there, another hour's drive west on the Yellowhead highway, back toward Prince George, we found a real gem of a place.
Little Mt. Robson Provincial Park. 3955 metre (12,972 ft) Mt. Robson is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. We couldn't even see it until we pulled off the highway and drove into the park. Then we were stunned. On this mild sunny, 16C day (61F), there it was, looming 3300 vertical metres (10,800 ft) above the trail, through the beautiful old-growth forest of Western Hemlocks, Red-Cedars, Englemann Spruce, and Lodgepole Pine. This immense wall creates strong upslope precipitation enhancement here in west and southwest flow patterns, allowing this beautiful forest to grow. A truly magical and sacred spot. The more so because fast ice-blue un-navigable Robson River rushes past the main trail, adding to the beauty.
The main trail goes about 40 km in around Mt. Robson, to it's north side. We only hiked about 8 km up in the early evening, and found another mirror lake, Kinney Lake. Here I am showing off a nice purple rock I found near there.
This little gem of a park is my favourite place of the whole trip, and one that I want to return to. I'd love to come back in a feb. or march, some year, and ski all around there, or in summer, summit Robson, which is easier from it's north side.
The next few days saw us heading back north, back to Prince George, then north along the Alaska Highway through northeastern BC. Here it's progressively colder and drier, more Alaska interior-like, and so not all that special, for us, since we're used to that.
One nice area though is Liard Hot Springs, almost to the Yukon border, at 59N. We hit this in early afternoon. We had originally thought of spending the night here. Because I'd heard many stories over the years involving fun and interesting encounters between people I knew, and wild European tourists. But, when we got there, there were none to be had! Still the hot springs there are beautiful. A nice 1 km walk in on planks, brings you to a large outdoor hot pool, which is the perfect temperature to lounge in. On our day, it was cool out, near freezing, so the water felt great. But after an hour or so, we got out and went for a run down the highway, and up a side road.
On our way, we saw our first wood bison. These beautiful creatures, smaller cousins of the plains bison, mysteriously died out in Alaska and the Yukon 200 years ago, but still live in northern Alberta. A herd of 200 or so were reintroduced to northern BC 60 years ago, and now they roam around the Alaska highway corridor. We ran past a large one, and afterward, I came back and got a few photos. A few hours later, we hit the road, since there were no fun European tourists, and came across a whole herd, around the highway. They are fairly placid, and Erik got close to this one, but they can charge if they feel threatened.
We got all the way north to Watson Lake, Yukon that day, camping in the dark near it. There was still a little snow on the ground, from ten days ago, when that cold storm had come through.
The next day, day 10, saw us get back to Whitehorse, where we had another nice clean-up and run around their amazing sports centre. By early afternoon though, we pressed on, and came to Kluane Lake by evening.
And what should we see crossing the highway there, but this huge grizzly. With all his winter fat laid on from a summer of gorging, getting ready for his long sleep. He waddled across the highway, ending up on the lake shore, to forage for dead fish. He was so big, he probably couldn't even run. He was just 10 metres below us on the lake shore, while we just parked on the edge of the road and snapped pictures of him from the safety of the APR cruiser.
A few minutes later, we had to pull off the highway, just south of the Congdon Creek Campground, near Destruction Bay. To see our friend Buddy, whom you've seen before here.
http://akprogressive.blogspot.com/2009/08/chilkoot-trail-experience-and-incident.html This is our fourth visit. As usual, we parked by the heavy equipment, whistled, and a few minutes later, he came running out. As large as Homer, and a few kg heavier (we think he has a good home!), he is always happy to see us. And of course, we always reward him handsomely with salmon, or some kind of tasty treat. A mandatory stop for all of our Yukon travels! If you are headed that way, be sure and stop in, he loves visitors!
We spent the last night out of our 12 day trip in Burwash Landing, on the shores of beautiful blue Kluane Lake. There is a little pull-out, just past the lodge, that is secluded, and right on the lake. A perfect place to car or tent camp. We got back to Copper Center, and Erik's bluff cabin in the afternoon the next day. Tired, from 11+ days of driving, but so glad we got to see and experience, what lies between. I hope to see more of it in the years ahead.
ENDURING REMINDERS
After Erik and I finished our BC road trip, I flew down to Oregon and California, to see family from 10/14 to 10/23. Beautiful places which I always enjoy visiting. So glad my family doesn't live in a place like Bakersfield, or Dallas!
My Mom, who lives near Portland, and I drove out to the coast so see more relatives and enjoy the area. Strong high pressure ridging was bringing warm, sunny, offshore flow weather to the coast. Near Lincoln City, where these beautiful waves were crashing, it was 22C (71F)! Naturally, I had to go in the 11C (52F) water, at least for a few minutes. Though the coast here is treacherous with strong currents and "sneaker" waves, that crash suddenly, because of the rapidly dropping beachfront. These crash quickly with great force and can sweep you off your feet and into a maelstrom of cold, churning water. One of these hit me and nearly did that, and almost took my shorts! Fortunately, I was able to collect myself and make it back in quickly.
After we had lunch and a visit with our relatives in Lincoln City, and I warmed up and dried off, we drove south to Newport.
When I saw the beautiful bridge across Yaquina Bay on US-101, that leads into Newport, I had to get a picture. And it came to me.
This beautiful bridge, and all the others like it up and down the west coast of the lower 48, as well as many other important facilities nation-wide, are ENDURING REMINDERS, of what can and should be done with public funding, to provide meaningful employment and to improve the quality of life for all our citizens. This bridge, and all the others like it, was built by the federal Works Progress Administration (WPA) in 1935-36. The WPA was created and promoted by FDR's administration from 1933 until World War II, to provide employment for some of the millions thrown out of work by the Great Depression, and build up the infrastructure in the US. These incredibly beautiful and durable works of art, are still in use today, 75 years later!
Here's another one of those bridges, along the Big Sur coast of Central California, along California Highway 1.
All of these were built between 1933-1940.
Other examples of important projects built during this time are many of the dams in the western states (especially along the Columbia and Colorado Rivers) and southeast, that provide electricity and water to these areas.
Quite possibly one of the most beautiful examples of the WPA projects is Timberline Lodge, on majestic Mt. Hood, near Portland, Oregon. A very special place to me, since I learned to alpine ski there, and have many fond memories.
Finished in 1937, it has withstood nearly 75 years of some of the harshest weather in the US. It's impressive and durable construction of local timber and rock, with considerable artistry and great craftsmanship continues to support an alpine ski area and resort, with a large hotel and four-star restaurant.
At 2000 metres elevation (6560) feet, the lodge probably receives about 1270 cm of snow (500 in.) a year, often combined with strong winds.
Inside the lodge, the beautiful craftsmanship and artistry are visible at every turn. It's worth a visit up there just to see that. To remind ourselves what can be done when people are given the opportunity to create something they know will be great, and enduring. But, since 1980, and the Ray-gun administration, there has been a concerted effort by them, their conservative successors, and the corporate media to demonise governmental efforts and projects (except for the military, of course) as wasteful and un-necessary. Today's politicians, democrat, and republican, will never sponsor programmes like the WPA, that produced such enduring and important structures and infrastructure.
So instead, what we get are un-necessary, illegal, and immoral wars killing hundreds of thousands of people, out of control defense/offense spending (more than the rest of the World combined), and increasingly greedy and predatory financial and corporate sectors.
This article sums it all up quite well:
This concerted effort to demonise government, with the exception of the military, and shift the prevailing discourse far to the right over the past 30 years has worked incredibly well. During republican president Dwight D. Eisenhower's administration, from 1953-1960, the top tax rates on the highest incomes reached 90 percent. Today, for the same income levels (adjusted for inflation), it is only 15 percent! And many corporations pay almost no tax. With all the tax loopholes, billionaires like Warren Buffett, have actually admitted that they pay less of a percentage of their income in taxes, than their secretaries! And over the last several months, even the democrats are resisting re-instating an estate tax on multi-millionaires that was suspended by the Bush Administration.
Folks, we've told you before, but we have to keep telling you, because it is the truth. Both the democrats and republicans are only working for the top one percent of the income bracket. All their policies are benefiting only the ultra-rich, and will continue to do so. Because that is where they are getting their campaign contributions from, and armies of lobbyists continue the pressure.
If we are ever are to reform our increasingly corporate-controlled, fascist, militaristic system, in the US, other parties are going to have to gain more support. We must have a political and economic system that is based on compassion for, and recognition of human needs. Rather than one based on sociopathic greed, which is what we have now.
http://akprogressive.blogspot.com/2010/01/legitimised-sociopathy.htmlOne of the ABSOLUTE WORST of the new breed of fascist "tea-party" republican candidates running for the US Senate this year, is Alaska's own Joe Miller, a Fairbanks Attorney. His campaign positions are very extreme, and level of hypocrisy, so blatant, that it defies the imagination. Fortunately, his campaign took a bad turn a few weeks ago, when his blatant fascism reared it's ugly head, and his security goons assaulted a reporter.
This resulted in some serious questioning of Mr. Miller's actual sanity. Why does a senatorial candidate require a security team as large as the President's (no other candidates to our knowledge have this)? With all his posturing about Constitutional Rights, why did his team violate the rights of a reporter daring to exercise his in questioning him? This did actually get considerable media attention, was posted on You-Tube, and now his chances of winning are considerably reduced. Thank the Goddess for small favours. Cheers.
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