IN A TIME OF UNIVERSAL DECEIT...TELLING THE TRUTH BECOMES A REVOLUTIONARY ACT

"Capitalism is the astounding belief that the most wicked of men will do the most wicked of things for the greatest good of everyone." John Maynard Keynes

" Labor is prior to, and independent of, capital; that, in fact, capital is the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if labor had not first existed. Labor is the superior of capital and deserves much the higher consideration" Abraham Lincoln

Friday, October 16, 2009

ALASKA SLED DOGS - The Edge of the Wild?

For as long as your lead author can remember, I have always been captivated by Husky and Malemute dogs, even though I grew up in the sunny southlands of San Diego.

Maybe it was because I read the "Call of the Wild" at least ten times by the time I was 12. I got to know many great ones living in Montana in the 1990s, though I had an amazing feral chow/german shepherd canine companion, Coyote, then (we found each other at the Missoula pound in 1991). Who would routinely hunt and eat whole, rabbits, marmots, and squirrels, on all our wilderness jaunts in Montana, and here in Alaska, before he passed away late in 2003, at the age of 13.

Alaska "sled dogs" are a mix of breeds, husky (Alaskan and Siberian), malemute, and various domestics (lab, shepherd, etc...). http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/sleddogs.htm

They are bred by dog mushers for speed, endurance, and docility, so that they will be able to relate to people and generally not be too quarrelsome amongst themselves.

Many of them also come from the hundreds of Alaska Native villages, where they live outdoors all year, and even around Fairbanks and other major road-based settlements they also live outdoors, since most serious mushers will have 25-50 dogs, or more. On the edge of the wilderness. This also means that traveling wolf packs, if a female sled dog is in heat, will breed with them, if no precautions are taken. Hence, many sled dogs have a detectable wolf influence, both in their physical characteristics, and in their demeanor.

Since they are born and bred for speed and endurance and to live and thrive in our harsh sub-arctic environment, they make excellent companions for anyone with an active, outdoor-based lifestyle, here in Alaska, or anywhere where colder winter temperatures occur. A typical active sled dog is easily capable of running up to 160 km (or more!) a day, at average speeds of 20 kilometres per hour! And most effectively/efficiently when temperatures are -15 to -40C!

Unfortunately, with so many dog mushers in Alaska, with so many dogs, the many that "don't work out" as racers, or effective members of a team, have to find other homes, or face euthanasia or dumping at the nearest animal shelter. This link shows the dogs available at our Fairbanks North Star Borough animal shelter. Note that most of them are husky's or mixed husky breeds (sled dogs). It is estimated that just here in Fairbanks, 300 or more of these beautiful, hardy beings are turned in to the animal shelter every year. Most of them never get adopted...

http://www.petfinder.com/shelterSearch/shelterSearch.cgi?&shelterid=AK12&Animal=Dog&sort=Identifier&preview=1

Therefore, here at the A.P.R., we feel it is our duty to always have two of these wonderful companions, so at least they will have a new lease on life, and return to us manyfold, the love, care, and protection that we give to them.

All that said, I'd like to introduce to you to the previous sled dogs I've been fortunate enough to have lived with, since moving to Fairbanks in 2001. This was Stikine, a beautiful fluffy little girl, of mixed husky and wolf origins. She came from the kennels of my friend Rebecca Chandler's then-husband, Eric Nicolier. Who was a musher training for the Yukon Quest, in the early 2000s. After losing Coyote in 12/03, I decided I should have two sled dogs for companionship. Stikine was born in Jan. 2004, and she came to live with me that summer.
She grew quickly, surpassing 20 kg by the time she as 4 or 5 months old. Homer, our research assistant, here at A.P.R., is Stikine's uncle. Her mother Elizabeth, is Homer's sister. Stikine had the same blue eyes and fur thickness/colours as Homer, and would probably reached his large size, had she been able.
I also adopted another beautiful sled dog at this time, Frost, a nine year old classic Alaskan Husky. More about her later.





Frost and Stikine grew to be great companions, in all our outdoor adventures, and during our routine neighbourhood runs.
She loved to sit on my lap while I drove, between my arms, looking out over the steering wheel. I tried to discourage this, as she grew, but she really loved being there.
Unfortunately, like many sled dogs, she had a penchant for running off, if allowed, returning a half hour to hours later. I tried limiting this possibility. But one evening in November, 2004, I opened the door of our little house we were living in, which is just off the busy Goldstream Road, in the Goldstream Valley, north of Fairbanks. She rushed out the door, and wouldn't come back. After calling out, I decided to wait, figuring she'd be back, like the many times before. But it was not to be. About an hour later, I saw cars stopped on the road, and flashing state trooper lights. Not knowing what was up, I went back to my evening. But a little while later, someone called from Ivory Jacks, the nearby bar/restaurant. Stikine had been struck and killed by a hit/run driver. My phone number was on her collar.
This was a big blow, she had been such a beautiful and loving companion, to Frost and I, and had a very strong, dominant personality. Frost was just as grief-stricken as I, but we helped each other through that winter, along with our other friends.

The next summer, 2005, I wanted another companion for Frost and I. While running on the Denali Highway near Maclaren Summit, I ran into Zoya Denure, a musher, who is married to John Shandlemeier, one of Alaska's mushing stars. He and his teams had won the grueling 1000+ km Yukon Quest race a few times in the 1990s. http://www.yukonquest.com/
They have a large summer-time sled dog kennel operation near Maclaren River Lodge, where they give tours to groups on tour buses. They also take in "rescue dogs", ones that have been taken from abusive and neglectful mushers or homes. They introduced me to Nahanni, the little black beauty here, at their lodge.
She was only six months old, and had been rescued from a very abusive situation. She was very skittish and afraid when I brought her home in July, 2005. It took me weeks of gentle conversation and treat-handing, to re-domesticate and bond with her. She took to running though with Frost and I immediately, greatly enjoying it. She never ran off while we ran together, or were in the wilderness.



She grew to be about Frost's size, 25 kg or so, while she was with us. But she was very independent, always wanting to run off, if we were just around town. In Nov. 2005, whilst the Chena Ridge Research Centre was under construction, she wouldn't return to our van, as we were leaving the job-site. So, Frost and I just took off slowly in the van. She followed us on the back dirt roads of Chena Ridge. I'd stop every now and then, she'd edge up close, but then back away, when I tried to grab her. Finally, I decided to try something different. We sped at a higher speed of 50 kph for several km. She ran at full speed after us. After about 15 minutes of this, I stopped, opened the sliding door, and she popped right in!
She also had a very strong, independent, domineering personality, a true "alpha". For those not in the know, wolf and dog packs are led by a dominant pair, an "alpha male and female". They call the shots and maintain discipline in the pack.

Of course, Nahanni loved running in the cold with Frost and I, the colder the better. Always amazing to me was that we could rush out our cozy 19C house, into the -40C winter air, and run for 1-2 hours. Me in my four layers, but them with nothing! And they couldn't be happier.

Unfortunately for Nahanni, her independence also proved to be her undoing. In February, 2006, after a beautiful snowfall of 15 cm or so of fresh powder, I wanted to snowshoe around the neighbourhood with Frost and her. I only had her out of my sight 30 seconds while adjusting a strap on my snowshoes, and she ran off. Frost and I combed the neighbourhood for half an hour with no success. Then we saw a truck stop on Goldstream Road, 150 metres from the house. We knew. We raced up there. She was lying in the ditch, severely injured. She had been lying there for some time, while we were searching. I rushed her as fast as possible to the animal hospital.

The vets there did their best. But her thorax was crushed and she had uncontrollable internal bleeding. She screamed and cried out in her terror and pain, for 20 minutes or more, before she departed. When the vets could do no more, they came out, in tears to tell me the news. But they didn't have to. I came home from the hospital to Frost without Nahanni. She ran out to Nahanni's little house and let out mournful howls. Frost was already 11 years old at this point, and Nahanni's loss hit her very hard. She lost some of her energy and drive after this.

Of all my canid companions to date, Frost was my favourite, and most loyal and loving. She came from my friends Doug and Lea Hutchinson, who were recreational mushers, with sixteen dogs. They were going to be leaving Alaska in 2005, so were trying to find homes for their sled dogs. Frost was the cream of their crop. She had been the lead dog on their team for many years. Her parents were both veterans of the Iditarod and Yukon Quest, from prestigious musher Rick Swenson's kennel. When I took her in with Stikine, in summer 2004, at the age of nine, she was in her last heat! I regret not having her bred, she would have produced beautiful, strong puppies, and been a loving mother to them. But I was not ready to sacrifice the time and energy to deal with 3-9 puppies, so had her neutered.


Frost was extremely loyal, but also very timid. She rarely ever ran off, and was always by my side, wherever we were. In her prime, as lead dog on the Hutchinson's team, she would run 150 km or more a day at times, at speeds of 20 kph. On all of our long runs and skis, at least before mid 2006, when she startedto slow down, I was incapable of tiring her out.

Her timidity though, required vigilance on my part. Sled dogs, more than domestic breeds, often have extreme jealousy issues. This may be a combination of their wolfiness, and lack of adequate human interaction when living in a large dog-yard.. On several occasions, I would gave attention to a different dog, then leave off, and turn to Frost. The other dogs attacked Frost, sometimes savagely. The worst was in April 2006, while we were running around Chena Ridge. A larger sled dog, outweighing her 5-8 kg, after I petted him, and we ran past, set upon her brutally. She was in a ball, while the other dog went for her throat. I didn't have time to think, I beat and kicked him off her with all my strength. He ran off, leaving Frost screaming and quivering on the road. I had to gently talk to her for a few minutes before she got up, and were able to resume our run. Fortunately she wasn't seriously injured.

A few weeks later, she returned the favour. My friend Jeff Gordon and I decided to just do a short day-ski/snowshoe on the frozen Delta River, through the Alaska Range, on a bright sunny, Easter sunday, 2006.

Here she is, midway through, helping us break trail through 30 cm or so of heavy packed powder.

The Delta River flows through a 1500-2000 metre deep canyon of the Alaska Range, funneling north or south winds through it. On this day, we began our outing with light south chinook winds.

But, three or four hours later, after lunch, we decided to head back, as the winds were increasing. By the time we got back near the river, after going up a side canyon, we could see we were in for a rough go.

You can see the blowing snow on the river there, with 3000 metre Mt. Silvertip looming above.

Jeff was ahead of me on snowshoes, retracing our route, while I followed behind, after stopping for a late lunch. When we caught back up to each other on the river, the winds were easily 80-100 kph sustained, and all the snow was being scoured off the river, creating a ground-blizzard, with near-zero visibility at times. It was difficult getting back across the river, because the snow was completely scoured away in spots, and edging across the sheer river ice on skis in that wind was a chore. There were also some open-water leads to skirt. Jeff and I got separated a few times, but Frost kept us together, by going back and forth between us. Thus, making our return trip much easier and safer! I had to stop and get her the biggest steak I could find, on the way home, for that.

She was starting to slow down though that year, and she even had some breast tumours removed in fall 2006. By April 2007, she was very slow and frail, in part due to another grief incident (more on that later) several months previous. Finally in May, 2007, she became very ill, and I rushed her to our vet. She was shaking and quivering, trying to run off into the woods and die. Her abdomen was filled with inoperable cancer, and she expired that month. Never to be forgotten, for her loyalty, affection, strength, and endurance.


After Nahanni's passing, in February, 2006, I wanted another companion for Frost and I.

That May we went to the Fairbanks animal shelter, and were captivated by this large, beautiful, gentle being.

His name was Nimbus, and he was just two or three years old. All that was known about him, was that he had been dumped after-hours at the pound with a note, saying he "didn't work out" as a sled dog. He was large, about 37 kg, and thought to be McKenzie River Husky/Wolf hybrid.

He came home with Frost and I in mid-May, 2006, and we had quite a challenge. He obviously had suffered hard times at the hands of other men, as he would shrink away from my approaching hand. And, not even take an offered treat, but would only eat it if I threw it to him, then looked away, while he ate it. He was also not housebroken. So it took weeks of gentle persuasion and encouragement to domesticate and bond with him. While keeping him roped to me at all times, out of doors. It took him a few months, before he would not run off for hours, if he accidentally got away.

He took to running with Frost and I immediately though, and was a majestic sight, with his wolfy appearance and plume of a tail. On our longer runs, up to 32 km or so, he wouldn't even drink water (at temps. of 15-25C!), though I tried to encourage him to do so.


He loved all our wilderness outings, as well our regular in-town runs and hikes. His large size and wolf background belied an amazingly gentle and timid demeanor. He always backed away from other dogs, if challenged (requiring my intervention at times). And never barked, just let out squeeks, if he needed something. He really took to women as well, perhaps because of his earlier experiences.

Unfortunately, his previous abuse at the hands of other men, proved to be his undoing. On 04 November, 2006, I rushed home to the Chena Ridge Research Centre, from work and bounded up the stairs, to change, so we could go for a run. But Nimbus always was perched at the top of there, that was his lair. Not knowing who I was, he panicked and bolted down the stairs. He tripped and broke a leg, and plummeted past me, too fast for me to grab. When his head reached the tile floor at the bottom of the stairs, it folded under his body, breaking his neck. I got to him and held his head in my hand, as he left this world, for the next. It took only a few seconds. Frost was there at our side, and she knew what happened. I rushed him to our local vet, just down the road, hoping for some miracle, but when I got there, we all knew it wasover. But Dr. Jean Battig worked on him just the same, more for my benefit than Nimbus'.

He was only three. But he had six good months at least, before his untimely end. I have to tell you what happened next, even though it is very graphic and sad. Dr. Battig said I could take Nimbus body to the pound for cremation. So in my shocked state I did, and asked the staff there what to do. When I came back with Nimbus' loose 37 kg body in my arms, they opened a door and had me put him in there. There were 20-30 other dead dogs on the floor in there. I almost dropped straight-away. It was the bi-weekly quota of dogs that didn't make it, that couldn't find homes. At least half of them were sled dogs. If this is happening here in Fairbanks, think what it is like in Anchorage, or other large cities in the lower 48. I stumbled and lurched out of there to my car, and collapsed for a few minutes in the driver's seat, before I could get it together for the drive home.

Frost was never the same after that, she became withdrawn and much less energetic that winter, and her end to cancer then came in May, 2007. I found myself dogless that summer, of 2007. Which did not feel right, and I knew that would change. My friend Jeff Gordon was thinking about adopting one, so after we got back from running the Whitehorse marathon in early August, we went to the animal shelter. He didn't find a dog there that really grabbed him, but my attention was quickly caught by this little beauty.
She was named Jinga at the time, by the shelter staff, and was thought to be two. She had been dumped at the shelter, limping on her back legs, and starving. I immediately was attracted to her beauty and sweet smile. I had her checked out by Dr. Battig, who said she would recover from her injuries.

So, a week later, she came home to the Chena Ridge Research Centre, with a new name of Kiana. After a village in northwest Alaska, known to be a very friendly place. What I didn't know, was anything about her past (which was surely very abusive). My room-mate at the time, Sabine, a very sweet German graduate student, had a timid little blue-eyed Siberian Husky named Ophie, a girl of eight. As soon as I brought Kiana in the door, and she saw Ophie, she charged! Straight for her neck! I grabbed Kiana in mid-air and threw her out the door.
It took weeks of attention, discipline, and treats, to get her to accept other dogs, and bond with her. But, as with all the others, she took to running with me right away, and greatly enjoyed it.

Here she is in her prime, September, 2007, after we bonded and she became accepting of other dogs.













In late September, 2007, we, along with my friend Janice, went for a hike up to the Gulkana glacier, in the Alaska Range. Just a half-hour after Janice took this picture, I slipped on some snow-covered ice, with boulders studded all round. I fell full-force, jamming my left knee onto a knobby rock. The pain was incredible, I fell to my back, writhing and gasping, trying to get my pack off, because I thought I was going to vomit. After about 5-10 minutes of pain and gasping, I was able to collect myself, and Janice (a radiologist!) and I assessed the damage. There was a hole in the kneecap down to the fascia, and it was rapidly swelling. I was able to get up, and with the aid of my trekking poles, was able to stumble the ten kilometres back to our car, with Janice and Kiana helping me as needed. Kiana was always by my side, whimpering and concerned.
With a broken and bandaged knee, I was unable to run or hike much for several weeks. So, two weeks after the injury, we drove up the Dalton Highway, to Atigun Pass and back, 13 1/2 hours in one day. We had never been there. I was able to stumble around in the tundra for about an hour near Atigun Pass, and Kiana had a great time. When I got back and looked at my pictures though, this one set me on edge. She looks like a spirit, flitting over the tundra, and with the past history of my otherdogs...

Jeff Gordon moved back in as my room-mate that fall, and brought Mattie with him, our now assistant-editor. He had gotten her from the pound on the Emerald Isle of Kodiak, when he lived there for a year. Mattie and Kiana had a great time that fall and winter together, and grew to be great companions.

On a mid-January evening of 2008, when this picture was taken, Mattie, Kiana, and I went for our usual 90 min. neighbourhood run. A few kilometres of which is on Chena Ridge Road, which has a 90 km speed limit, meaning most people are doing 110 or better.

When we were on a straight stretch of that road, Mattie pulled me hard, and I let go of Kiana. She got out into the traffic lane. I immediately went after her, but it was too late. A large 4WD truck was bearing down at us, easily going 120 kph. I got out of the way just in time, and felt it brush my shoulder. It went right through Kiana, and her remains ended up on the other side of the road. The tan/white mid 1990s Ford 4WD extra-cab never slowed or stopped. I was dressed in bright reflective red, and Kiana had alot of white on her, so the driver had to have seen us. I ran over and just lay with her in the road, not caring what happened, at that point. A nice older man in another truck stopped, came out, and helped us all into the bed of it. He took us the two km home. I called my friend Rebecca, and she came over to help me deal with the situation, and took Kiana's remains for me to the pound. Mattie of course was traumatized as well, but her recovery was much faster than mine.

It took me a few months before I could look again at large trucks without great fear and anger, and drive or run past that spot on the road without re-living the experience.

Jeff decided he couldn't take very good care of Mattie, and asked me if I would adopt her. I was happy to, she was and is a very sweet, loyal, and extremely brave and tough companion.

When she was just 15 months old, and weighed 25 kg, we went for a short pack trip in the Alaska Range in August, 2008. At our campsite, by this pond, just after I took this picture, around 2000 in the evening, I heard a snorting and pawing sound, while in my tent. I rushed out, hoping it was not a bear. A large bull caribou, easily more than 2 metres tall, and weighing 180-200 kg, was displaying displeasure that we were in his area (I had seen large amounts of caribou scat there when we were setting up camp earlier).

Before I could stop her, she charged after him, barking and running circles around him. I couldn't believe it, and the moreso, because he ran off! He could have easily dispatched her with one kick. After that surge of bravery and protection on her part, she could do no wrong in my eyes!
She has incredible endurance, even though she is half-lab. When our friend Erik Hursh and I skied in to the Chris McCandless bus on the Stampede Trail last March (about 68 km round trip), Mattie ran along. Going back and forth, constantly. So, we figure she must have easily ran about 140 km that day. She was a little tired at the end, but the next day, was not sore at all!

We were thinking another canine companion would be a good idea, over the past year. Then our friend Rebecca notified me that her 12 year old boy, Homer, needed a new home. Rebecca had moved to Oregon last year, leaving Homer with another family. Who couldn't give him the care and attention he needed. So he came to us this past June. After just a few weeks of running with us, he had shed at least 3-4 kg, and was looking, acting, and feeling much better.

Since Homer had lived with Rebecca and her ten year old daughter Isabell his whole life, he was fully trained and domesticated, in spite of his wolfiness. Which is quite apparent in his long legs and method of running; he lopes along much like a wolf.

He and Mattie quickly bonded, and are now inseparable, as we work and play in and around the Chena Ridge Research Centre, or go on outings in
more wild settings.

Such as this beautiful area, on the Mt. Healy trail, in the Alaska Range, near Denali N.P. This was late last July, when he surprised a young hiker, who thought he was a wild wolf, before he saw me and Mattie.

In spite of his relatively advanced age, for a canine, of 12 or 13, Homer is in very good shape, physically and mentally. He participates actively in all our activities, and has run as far as 30 km with us. We think we'll have the pleasure of at least a few more

good years with his strong, yet gentle presence.

Which brings us to the end of this narrative. In spite of all the misfortune of losing Stikine, Nahanni, Nimbus, and Kiana, so quickly, and at such young ages, I don't regret having taken them in at all. For they all at least had several good months to ayear, before they were taken from us.

And their love and affection was real and strong, greatly enriching us. They always reinforced strong ideas for me too, interacting with them. For they never worried about past or future events overmuch, living much more in the moment. And when tragedy has struck, while grief-stricken for a short while, they have always recovered much more quickly than I.

For those of you living in Fairbanks, if you don't already have a canid companion or two, please think of adopting one of these hardy, strong, loyal and affectionate beings.

http://www.petfinder.com/shelterSearch/shelterSearch.cgi?&shelterid=AK12&Animal=Dog&sort=Identifier&preview=1

Even though some of them may require focused work and attention, to bond with and re-domesticate them, it will be well worth it. They may even save your life, if a bear or other large animal becomes aggresive. You can count on that! And for routine companionship, especially if you like to run or hike alot, they can't be beat, the colder the better!

If you don't live here, but are just visiting, consider visiting our animal shelter, and taking one or two home with you. You won't regret it! We never have. Cheers.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

I live in Alabama, and loved reading your stories. While I would I love to adopt a strong, loving companion, I don't think it would be possible to pay for shipping the dog here...and we don't have much snow.
However, kudos to you. We do have some coyotes, cougars, bears, and panthers that we could stnad some protection from. With the government wanting to take our weapons, how shall we protect ourselves from the wild? They live on streets and concrete, they're clueless.