FOREVER FEBRUARY (and March)

This is the summit of Konoya Point, which is right behind the Chugach Front Research Centre, visible as we type. One of our favourite things to do in winter here is hike up these adjacent heights after a windstorm, when the snow is packed down hard. So that we can ascend in Katoolahs, which are shoe chains that are very strong and durable. Allowing us to scale and descend steep snowy and icy sections safely. This ridge is Konoya Point, it rises to 1433 metres (4700 ft) right behind our neighbourhood, which is at only 80 metres (262 ft). Behind it, several other peaks rise to a maximum of 1628 metres (5340 ft) within easy day-hiking ability. We haven't quite made it to those others yet though, but we look forward to it. At these elevations, above 1000 metres, the weather conditions can change rapidly, and become quite arduous, with gale or storm force winds, fog/whiteout visibilities, and even near freezing in summer. So we have to choose good weather days. We did this one the last week in February, when it still windy, but not full storm force.  The driest months in Alaska are generally, February, March, and April, which occur because less moisture is available from the Bering Sea, which is two-thirds frozen then. So weather systems with trajectories from the WSW to NW are drier, and weaker. It's no surprise then, that these are our favourite months here in Alaska. Peak snowpack, longer, warmer days, and abundant sunshine make for a winter paradise.

Wednesday last your lead editor got to go on a back-country ski tour on the Arctic to Indian route. 34 KM from around 1000 metres at the head of the Ship Creek drainage, the trail drops from the road down to Ship Creek at 427 metres. Then follows it up 21 KM to Indian pass, around 950 metres, descending in 10 km to the trailhead at 150 metres, in the valley and hamlet of Indian. Nestled in the much warmer, wetter, maritime climate, around the corner from Anchorage's interior blend, which is more to our liking. Mattie and Homer had to stay home, because my friend Tim Stallard, from Fairbanks, and five of his Anchorage friends and I, all had to car shuttle when we were done, in Indian, in a VW van.

The first two miles are a fairly steep and narrow downhill to Ship Creek. I had to take my skis off and walk most of this. The trail was less than a metre wide in many sections, and very hard, from being scraped. My newly glide-waxed metal-edged touring skis were just too fast and unstable on this, I kept getting out of control.

Once we got down to Ship Creek, on the valley bottom, the trail followed it, smooth and fairly level, for 15-18KM. We made really good time here, and enjoyed the views of the higher peaks on both sides. Interesting to know that there is a big city on the other side of them, you sure wouldn't know that here.

One of Tim's friends did bring 13 year old lab-husky mix Sky. She has Homer's white/blue eyes, with the same black coat. Very striking, and with his wolfy long legs too. She really enjoyed herself on this trip.

Getting further south toward Indian Pass, in the afternoon, the surrounding peaks on both sides became closer, as the valley narrowed. These are around 1650 metres (5400 feet).

Only these stunted mountain hemlock and spruce trees can make a go of it in this windswept, cold area at 950 metres. Even in summer, at these elevations it can drop to 3-6C (34-42F) for days at a time, with strong winds and rain. When a cold airmass in the interior settles in, cold north winds howl through here at gale and storm force (60-120 KPH).

We reached the around 950 metres (3100 ft.) Indian Pass around 230 pm, after starting out at 0945, and had lunch here. We could see down the Indian Valley toward Cook Inlet now, and the moister, maritime forest of hemlocks. More snow now too, about three times deeper than just a few KM back.

I had to take my skis off here and start walking though, as it was quite steep down the pass. I just couldn't stay in control, like the others, on their wider, heavier, shaped, back-country skis. Thus began my "miserable mile" of post-holing, falling into the snow up to my hips and belly frequently, and having to dig out, on the way down. Because it was a steep wider slope, it wasn't packed down hard. I was getting blown-out having to get through that. Sure loved those views though, down to ice-clogged Turnagain Arm. The daily tides are among the highest in the World here, 13 metres (40 feet!) in places. So Cook Inlet, Turnagain Arm, and Knik Arm, never fully freeze over. Just get filled with icy chunks, some of which are huge.

Once I got a little lower though, the trail narrowed, and became more hard-packed. Then, for the last 9 KM, I enjoyed a nice walk through the woods in the bright March sun. The trail was really narrow and still steep here, so no skiing. In some areas, it was full of debris, it'd been almost a month since the last snow, and that was taking it's toll. So it was better to walk on that anyway, my skis wouldn't get scratched and gouged.

Waiting for us at the end, was this 1987 VW Synchromesh 4WD van. We all fit in, but barely, with seven people, a large dog (Sky slept on my knee on the way back), and all our skis and gear. Sure was a beautiful day in the March sun, about -7C (23F) at the start, and +2C (35F) at the end, with just light south winds. Good company, and a nice route. We love March.

I felt bad leaving Homer and Mattie back at the Chugach Front Research Centre, while on this beautiful outing. So the last five days running, we've all been on skis and runs, in the invigourating March sun. Today, they were both a little slower, it's warming up to +2C now in the afternoon, and since they both have their winter coats on, they can overheat quickly.

We sometimes wish it was forever February, and March!